Enter Pho Duy II, way out of the way on North Peoria somewhere a little south of the train tracks and I-70. The sign is glowing white and blue, prominent at night against the dark, vast background of empty lots and open spaces in this forgotten corner of Aurora.
It's Saturday night and the place is about as packed as I have seen, mostly with Mexican and Asian families. My wife and I are seated symbolically in the middle of this cultural medley. I look up at the muted NCIS episode playing in the corner but my eyes are diverted by a wonderfully tacky painting of idyllic waterfalls and soaring gulls.
The menu is straightforward pho. I ordered a large raw beef, my wife a small chicken. The broth is consistently a little plain here, but it does the trick, and is salvageable with the right balance of fresh herbs, lime juice, fish sauce, Hoisin and